Author: Michael Hodges

Spring Hiking in Estes Park

It’s that time of year once again and time for some spring hiking in Estes Park! The days are longer, the temps are slowly warming, the grass is beginning to green and the pasque flowers are in bloom! While we love experiencing this change in season, winter weather always puts up a fight as spring takes the lead in this annual seasonal battle. So, take note, spring hiking can be absolutely perfect (and I mean perfect), it can also turn into full on winter conditions in a moments notice. I’ve gone from sweating buckets at the start of a hike to finishing in blizzard conditions as I make it back to the trail head. One also has to watch out for the early season thunderstorms that can roll through with cold rain, hail, and lightning.

Enough of that, for now let’s get back to the perfect hiking conditions I was talking about to begin with. Here are some of my favorite hikes in order for the best spring trails, read low elevation, to some that may throw in a few curve balls at the higher altitudes.

Get Low

Go to Lumpy! (Map) A few wonderful options here. For a gentle, rolling hike, you can head out on the Black Canyon Trail (on the left by the bathrooms). This winds behind McGregor Ranch on gently rolling terrain for a couple of miles before getting steep. There are countless options here… head out until you want to turn around, go the the ‘green gate,’ if you know, you know, and enjoy a nice four mile round trip hike, or you can continue past where the grade gets much steeper. You can turn around when you’ve had enough, or continue all the way around the Lumpy Loop for an eleven mile leg burner. Be sure to look up this hike… there are a few trail junctions you’ll want to be aware of. There will also be snow on the backside of this loop into late spring. In April and early May, look for the stunning pasque flowers along the lower portions of this trail, especially in the first half mile. The first in the area to bloom and a sure sign of warmer days ahead.

If you head up the Gem Lake trail (to your right at the bathrooms), you can enjoy a quite steep, 3.4 (I think) mile round trip hike to a quaint little lake tucked into some dramatic granite cliffs. This is a classic! Note that some of the shaded areas near the lake can hold ice into lake spring. Easy to avoid, but don’t be a dummy and hurt yourself on the slick spots.

Bonus: Go to Bridal Veil Falls from the Cow Creek Trailhead (Map). 6.2 miles and a true joy of a hike.

Ramp It Up

Some mid elevation options would be Upper Beaver Meadows (limited parking early in the season), and Cub Lake.

Upper Beaver Meadows doesn’t really take you anywhere, but just explore a map and you can see the network of trails that surround this area. (Parking options: Early Season | Later Spring) It’s a perfect place to simply get out and enjoy Rocky. Make it as short as you want or you can get some real distance in. Last week I did an eight mile run in that general area and definitely didn’t hit every trail, and never repeated any section of trail either. Look for plentiful mule deer and turkeys. You’ll see elk here a lot and coyotes are pretty common as well.

The Cub Lake Trail (Map) is another great spring option. It’s about five miles round trip and the trail skirts the far west end of Moraine Park before climb up to this gorgeous lake. The last little bit is narrow and shaded so can hold some snow and ice until later in the spring, so take note and use your noggin when you encounter the slippery sections, especially on the way down. Look for turkeys and even moose along the lower sections of this hike.

Get High

No no, I know we’re in Colorado, but I’m just talking about elevation. Springtime can make for incredible high altitude hiking but you do need to be on your A-Game. The trails will still be snow covered and the weather can change in a blink of an eye so you’ll need to really be prepared for a wide variety of conditions. You can be drenched in sweat hiking in full sun and blue skies in a t-shirt one minute and bitterly cold after a snow squall slips over the divide the next. So, seriously, don’t take higher altitude spring hiking in Estes Park for granted.

Emerald Lake (Map) is a go to any time of year. This trail will most likely be packed down, icy, and slick in the spring. Especially in the morning hours before the sun has had a chance to do its work. In the afternoon it can be soft and slushy making for very cold wet feet. This hike is about 4 miles round trip and it breathtaking, passing by several lakes en route to Emerald.

The Loch (Map) is another worthy option. A bit longer at five miles (ish) but no less spectacular. Again, snow packed and variable trail conditions will persist along this route.

Woof Woof

You brought the pooch and need an option. Head south to the Brainard Lake (Map) area. You can’t drive all the way to the lake until the road opens, but the Indian Peaks Wilderness is every bit as spectacular as Rocky Mountain Nation

al Park and you can bring the pups with you! Just park where the road is closed for the season and follow the road up to Brainard Lake. From there you can continue on, if you wish, to one of many worthwhile destinations from lakes to summits. Again, this is high altitude and you’ll most likely be on snow the entire time until later in the spring.

A close option that should be snow free is the Homer Rouse Trail (Map). A few miles, roundtrip, will take you up to Seven Keys Lodge through forest and open meadows. A popular option for us locals when we want to stretch the legs with our four legged friends.

Hopefully this gives you some ideas over these next six or so weeks on some incredible hikes to hit as winter gives way to warmer days. Spring hiking in Estes Park is some of the best hiking all year. Just use common sense and enjoy some time in these truly special mountains. Some waterproof shoes will definitely help as well 😉

Happy Trails!

p.s. If you’re looking for some summer hikes, check this out: Summer Hike Blog Post

Mountain Lion Kill: The Wild Side of Castle Mountain Lodge

Please note, images and descriptions in this post may upset some readers.

Earlier this month we noticed a large bull elk that was deceased behind our off site cabin, Little Bear. It was huge, a large 8×6, and was dead and partially buried under a spruce tree right on the banks of Fall River. There was some fur missing on its neck and it’s nose had some wounds and was bloodied.

I was certain it was a lion kill as it had all the signs. The only thing that made me second guess was the size of the bull. There are plenty of smaller prey that the lion could have targeted and I would have assumed that a lion wouldn’t risk the battle with a bull of this size. We also found tracks on the frozen and snow covered river that confirmed it was a mountain lion.

I quickly ran and grabbed my Stealth Cam from the mountainside behind the lodge and set up on on a bench that was maybe 5 yards from the kill. Within an hour we had confirmation that it was, in fact, a lion kill. But it was a little frustrating as the lion noticed the camera and, upon inspection, knocked the bench over. We had a close up picture of the head and ears of the lion, and then a couple of pics of the sky! The camera takes three photos when triggered, so that’s all we had.

My daughter and I were at dinner at The Post (yummy, by the way) so we ducked out quickly to run back and set the camera up again. Then the same thing happened. About 10 minutes after setting the bench back up, the cat knocked it over again. They are very curious animals and are known to have many of the same behaviors as your typical house cat.

We set it up one more time but in my haste, I didn’t get the angle of the camera set correctly and we got no more photos that night. It was pretty eerie righting the bench in the dark knowing that a mountain lion was so close, so I didn’t take the time to make sure the angle was perfect.

The next morning we went over and strapped the camera to a tree and got some wonderful photos and videos of this beautiful creature. As well as some of the scavenging coyotes that helped themselves to a snack.

Click on the image to see a larger version:

Devil’s Backbone Hiking!

While not in Estes Park or Rocky Mountain National Park, Devil’s Backbone is a wonderful option for an amazing hike on a bad weather day up high or if you’re traveling to or from Estes and will be driving through Loveland. Devil’s Backbone is about 45 minutes from Castle Mountain Lodge a few minutes east of the mouth of the Big Thompson Canyon on Hwy 34, the same road we’re on.

This Larimer County Open Space is worthy of a visit in its own right and it’s unique landscape is one you’ll love to explore. The description from its website, link below, gives a good feel for what to expect:

Red-tailed hawks soaring above, grasslands carpeted with wildflowers, towering rock formations – these are just some of the natural features to be enjoyed at the 3,007-acre Devil’s Backbone Open Space. It has 17.25 miles of trail that connect to Rimrock Open Space and Horsetooth Mountain Open Space for hiking, running, horseback riding, mountain biking, wildlife viewing, observing nature, as well as enjoying close-up inspection of the rock outcrop and long vistas.

The Devil’s Backbone itself is one of the most impressive and visible geologic landmarks in Larimer County showcasing:

The Devil’s Backbone is a geologic feature known as a “hogback”, which forms when flat layers of sedimentary rock are bent into wave-like shapes and then eroded away unevenly, leaving a spine of a harder layer of rock sticking out almost vertically from the ground.
This unusual vertical orientation of sedimentary rock (called the Dakota Group) was formed over 100 million years ago when sand and gravel were deposited along an ancient seashore.
Some 50 million years later, this hogback, known as the Devil’s Backbone, was steeply tilted by the same tectonic forces that created the Rocky Mountains.
You can find 4 layers of sedimentary rock at Devil’s Backbone Open Space representing different prehistoric eras.

Drinking water is available at the trailhead. Please carry enough for your hike or ride. This open space is popular. If you arrive to a full parking lot, that means trails are at maximum capacity. Please consider a different open space for the day and come back another time.

Devil’s Backbone Open Space is open from sunrise to sunset and is located west of Loveland, Colorado.

devils backbone colorado — Longs Peak and Devils Backbone

Today, I just took a nice easy hike around what’s known as the Hunter Loop and the Laughing Horse Loop from the main Devil’s Backbone trail head. Today was absolutely perfect and I even saw a couple of red tailed hawks as they described above. The terrain is mixed between buttery smooth and flat trails, to steep and technical trails, and everything in between.

This hike, today, was right at 6.5 miles with about 1,200 feet of elevation gain. So pretty mellow. However, you can really make this as long as you want with connecting trails that can get you well above 30 miles if you want. You can even connect to the Horsetooth Mountain trail system and tack that on if you wanted to punish yourself!

Again, this will be out of the way for most staying here at Castle, but it’s a wonderful option if you’re wanting to get to lower elevations during bad/snowy weather, or if you wanted to go for a hike on your way to or from Estes.

Some things to note: Dogs are allowed here, on leash. As are bikes and horses. In the summer months rattle snakes are a common sight, so use caution. As always, practice leave no trace principles, this is a very well kept open space and locals really take pride in it. Help us keep it clean and keep it wild!

Devil’s Backbone Open Space
Length: Whatever you want! Up to 30+ miles
Elevation Gain: Pretty mellow… steep sections but nothing too hard
Red Tape: You will need to buy a Larimer County Day Pass to display on your dash. There is a kiosk in the parking lot. It’s $10 for a 24 hour pass.

Links:
Devil’s Backbone Open Space (Larimer County)
All Trails (Several Hike Options Highlighted)

Late Autumn Hike to Emerald Lake

The crowds are gone and snow has set in up high. Emerald Lake is a classic Rocky Mountain National Park Hike. Only about 3.5 miles round trip with less than 1,000 feet of elevation gain, it’s a trek that most can muster up the energy to complete. With a few steeper section, most of this hike is relatively gentle especially when compared to much of the park’s more relentless terrain.

With dramatic beauty around, literally, every corner, this is a can’t miss. Start from Bear Lake, at the very end of Bear Lake Road, and simply follow the Emerald Lake Trail to its terminus on the shores of Emerald Lake. On the way you’ll pass Nymph Lake (.5 mile from the TH), a charming spot that offers a quaint setting in the pines, and Dream Lake (another .6 miles up the trail) where the big views slap you right in the face. Hope you’re ready to take a few (hundred) pics!

A bit more than a half mile further up the trail, you’ll come over a rise and drop down into the bowl that holds Emerald Lake. At about 10,100 feet, this high alpine lake is popular for a reason. Hiking this time of years can easily give you complete solitude in this amazingly special and unique spot. A trek here in the busy season, June through October, and you’ll most likely be sharing the shores with a few dozen of your closest strangers! Though maybe a mild annoyance, if any of them are boisterous or blasting their music of choice on a bluetooth speaker (please don’t be one of these people… pretty please), it’s still well worth a visit no matter the season.

The massive, prominent mountain on your left is Hallett Peak… climb it. Trust me. The spires on your right are the Flattop Spires, part of Flattop Mountain. It’s a dramatic scene and worth spending some time admiring.

Just return the way you came, soaking in the scenes and it’s a hike you’ll remember forever. I can still remember my first time doing this hike back in 2001. It never gets old.

Emerald Lake
Miles: 3.4(ish)
Beginning Elevation: 9,450 feet
Ending Elevation: 10,108 feet
Total Elevation Gain: +/- 800 feet

Link for more info: All Trails

Fish Stocking Day!

One of the best features of the property here at Castle Mountain Lodge is our more than 1000 feet of Fall River that rushes by your cabin. Guests love to take a walk along our river trail, sit and relax on the banks, or throw a line in and catch their dinner! We want to make sure this experience is memorable for every guest so we stock the river for you a few times each summer with healthy trout from local fisheries.

The trout tend to stay within a couple hundred yards from where they are released as long as the river isn’t at its peak. So we wait until the bulk of the snowmelt is over and the level of the water drops a bit before stocking it up. The first stocking of the year is typically mid July and we just got our fish this week!

We have poles and tackle in the lobby to check out (for free). If you do need worms, which work very well, you can get those at a few spots in town. Just ask!

Hope to see you along our banks and best of luck!

Elk Calving Season!

It’s a perfect spring day in Rocky Mountain National Park. You woke up in your cabin to a crisp morning with singing birds and the warm sun kissing the snow-capped peaks along the divide. Lower elevations are coming alive with greening grasses and early season flowers blooming. The spring melt has begun, and the rivers and streams are beginning to rise. Wildlife of all kinds have moved into the valleys to take advantage of the fresh foliage and are readily visible throughout the area. After a couple cups of coffee and some breakfast, you’re out the door ready to hit the trail.

This is a magical time of year that coincides with elk calving season. Some of our favorite places to stretch our legs in the lower elevations of Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park also happen to be the elk’s favorite spots to give birth. We’ve been blessed to experience it many times. Seeing an elk in the process of giving birth or attentively caring for their hours or days old calf. It’s truly a precious sight. But sometimes we forget that these are wild animals ready to defend their offspring against any threat. They aren’t the docile looking photo-ops they often seem to be.

Calves are routinely hidden very close to popular trails, or even near your cabin, or in a park downtown, with their mother grazing or resting nearby. And we have no idea! These mothering cows can and will become instantly aggressive toward you to protect their young. They are very large and lightning fast and every year someone gets in between a cow and her calf. It rarely ends well.

So what can you do to enjoy these beautiful places and still give the elk the space they require? It’s not too hard, actually. A good rule of thumb is to simply stay 100 yards or more away from any female elk this time of year, May – June. This is a good rule of thumb any time, but especially during calving season. Make your presence known. Talk while you hike. If you see an elk down the trail that doesn’t see you, make some noise. If it runs away, great. If it stands its ground or moves toward you, simply walk back down the trail you came from.

Yes, this can definitely cause you to change your plans for the day on the fly, but, trust me, this minor inconvenience is better than having an angry and defensive 600 pound elk coming after you.

Now there is more you can do and other precautions you can take, so just use this as a starting point. Following are some links that can give you some more professional advice as you prepare for your trip to the high country!

This isn’t to strike fear into you and spring is arguably the best time to hit the trails in Rocky. It’s simply to help you stay safe and enjoy this this area to its fullest!

Happy hiking!

Estes Park Elk Safety

Info on Elk from RMNP

Trail Gazette Article on Elk Calving Safety

National Park Photo of Elk Calf in Moraine Park (NPS/Baker)

2024 Timed Entry Reservations Open Wednesday May 1!

This is just a friendly reminder that the Timed Entry for Rocky Mountain National Park opens on May 1… this coming Wednesday.

First, let us just say that this can be confusing for folks, so if you do have any questions, don’t hesitate to email or call us to help walk you through their process. With that said, it isn’t that hard once you get the idea.

Second, You only need to buy a Timed Entry Reservation on May 1st if you are visiting the National Park from May 24th to June 30th of this year. The Reservations for the remaining months open up on the 1st day of the month prior. (June 1, for the month of July, for example).

Finally, here are the links that will help explain in more detail:

• Rocky Mountain National Park Timed Entry Info Page

• Recreation.gov site where you actually buy your desired Entry Reservation

Again, if you need help, feel free to reach out.

McGregor Mountain Lodge: 970-586-3457
Castle Mountain Lodge: 970-586-3664

There are contact numbers for the National Park on the RMNP page linked above that could be of great help as well.

We’re looking forward to a wonderful summer and autumn up here in the high country, so don’t let a little red tape discourage you from getting out and hitting the trails!

Hiking across the summit of Flattop Mountain on the way to Hallett Peak.

Fly Fishing in Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Parl

Fly Fishing in Estes Park and RMNP

Estes Park Fly Fishing — Fly Fishing at Castle Mountain Lodge

With world class fly fishing right out your front door, you may want to pick up a rod and try your hand at catching your dinner! You can fish in our stretch of Fall River here on the property, or head into Rocky Mountain National Park, and surrounding areas, for endless fishing opportunities. From roadside river casting to hiking to those secret honey holes deep in the back country, there are options for all skill levels and desired experience.

If you’re new to the sport of fly fishing, we recommend taking a class or enjoying a guided experience with Kirk’s Fly Shop here in downtown Estes Park. The good folks there are the go-to outfit in Northern Colorado and can provide everything you need to get you on the river… from a license, to a guide, to all the gear, and recommendations of every sort.

Kirk’s is also the spot we defer to when we need to know where the fish are biting and what they’re currently seeing as their preferred delicacy. Give them a call at (970) 577-0790 or visit their website (Kirk’s Fly Shop) for more info, or if you have any questions.

The bottom line is that Castle Mountain Lodge, Estes Park, & Rocky Mountain National Park offer truly spectacular fly fishing and it’s a highlight of our local mountain living!

Classic Hikes In Rocky Mountain National Park (Summer Edition)

Classic RMNP Summer Hikes

For good reason, the summer months in Rocky Mountain National Park are the most popular months to visit. The weather in the high country this time of year is just about perfect. Cool mornings, warm afternoons, and those summer storms that roll through after lunch provide ideal weather for getting out and exploring the trails. With the hundreds of miles of hiking trails at your disposal, where do you begin?!

A few things to consider when choosing where to go. What do you want to see? Waterfall? Lake? Summit? Wildlife? Different hikes provide different scenery and experiences. Choosing what you want to see will narrow it down. Now figure out how long you want to hike? Are you wanting to keep it short and sweet, or are you ready for an all day trek into the back country? Finally, are you wanting something a little less popular or are you ok being around other hikers to see the quintessential and classic RMNP landscape?

Here we’re going to cover a few of the classics that have contributed to sparking the wonder and curiosity in all who have wondered into these mountains for hundreds of years.

Dream Lake

We’re not sure one destination can represent Rocky Mountain National Park more than Dream Lake. In the stunningly beautiful Tyndall Gorge, Dream Lake sits below the dramatic east face of Hallett Peak and the Flattop Spires on the south side of Flattop Mountain. It’s relatively close to the trail head at Bear Lake, only 1.1 miles away, and isn’t a terribly steep hike either. For these reasons, it’s one of the more popular destinations in RMNP, so don’t expect much solitude. It’s great for kids and you can see a few lakes along this trail (Bear Lake & Nymph Lake) with a plethora of other options beyond Dream if you want to extend your adventure. For more on this hike, click here: All Trails Link

Ouzel Falls

The name may not sound familiar, but surely, you’ve seen a picture of this stunning waterfall that sits in the middle elevations of Wild Basin on the southeast side of Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s image is used in many advertisements for outdoor gear and lifestyle publications, as well as countless Instagram stories and TikTok… toks? A little harder to get to, this unique waterfall is about 2.5 miles from the Wild Basin Trailhead but only gains elevation moderately. It’s a captivating hike along the Thunder Lake Trail beside North Saint Vrain Creek. You pass Copeland Falls and Calypso Cascades along the way as well. A worthy destination that will provide moments of solitude, unlike the busy Bear Lake corridor. Want to hike Ouzel? Learn more here: All Trails Link

Flattop Mountain

The most popular large summit hike not named Longs Peak in Rocky, Flattop Mountain is as classic as classic gets. Topping out at about 12,450 feet, this hike takes you to the continental divide on a broad, flat summit. 4.5 miles to the top while gaining more than 2,800 feet, this hike is to be respected, though it’s well worth the effort. Be sure to start early and be down below tree line before the afternoon storms form to your west. And if you have any more in your legs, hop over to Hallett Peak, about a half mile and 300 vertical feet away. More info on this hike here: All Trails Link

This is just the tip of the iceberg. Opportunities are endless in Rocky and there are far too many incredible destinations to list in one blog post, but this should get you going. Be smart, use common sense, know your limits, and enjoy every step!

Black Bears in Estes Park

Bears! Rocky Mountain National Park is home for anywhere between 20-30 black bears, with Grizzlies no longer existing in Colorado. And while they are sparse, there are a few things you can do to keep yourself and the bears safe on your next visit to Castle Mountain Lodge and the Rocky Mountains.

Black bears generally keep to themselves but if you happen to see one, do not approach. Stand where you are, make yourself look tall, and make a lot of noise. They should run away almost immediately as they prefer not to interact with people or make a big fuss of things.

Bears have also figured out how to use door handles on vehicles and other doors without knobs, so be sure to clear out your car of any smelly foods or items and lock your doors at night. As soon as the bear realizes it can’t open the door, it will leave you and your stuff alone.

While bears may seem intimidating, they are, in fact, incredibly timid. If you are not bothering them then they won’t bother you. Stay safe and respectful of the wildlife while you visit and ensure a harmonious visit for everyone by doing the research on local wildlife necessary before you travel.

You can read up more on Black Bears and what you can do to keep yourself and them safe here on the National Park Service’s webpage.

And you can read up more on the wildlife we see at the lodges here on our website.